Christmas Market Adventures -Starting in Frankfurt

A Christmas Market, or Christkindlmarkt, is a street market associated with the celebration of Christmas during Advent, generally the four weeks preceding Christmas. We arrived in Frankfurt on Nov 28, a day or two into Advent. Notice the fall foliage on the riverwalk to the the Frankfurt Market.Christmas markets originated in Germany and Austria and are now held in many other countries as well.
These markets date back to the late middle-ages in the German speaking part of Europe. The first market recorded in history was the Vienna "December Market" and dates back to the year 1294.
Christkindlmarkt literally means "Christ Child Market" Usually held in the town square, the markets sells seasonal Christmas items, many handcrafted items and food and drink from open air stalls. Nativity Scenes, figures from dried plums and walnuts, Christmas cookies, toys, books, tree ornaments, etc, many handmade are sold.
Here is Melanie at the Frankfurt market in the historic and beautiful historical city center of Romerberg and Paulsplatz.






Usually a huge lighted Christmas tree is featured amongst the open air stalls.


















Live Christmas music is plentiful. This stand featured open flame barbequeing of bratwurst, weiswusrt, and all other kinds of German sausage as well as chicken and steak.

Nuremburg - One of the first

One of the world's most famous Christmas markets is in the historical main market square of Nuremburg. The ancient part of Nuremburg was used as a stage for many Nazi rallies because it was once the center of the Holy Roman Empire in Bavaria. 90% of this area was destroyed by Allied bombers in less than an hour in 1945 just before the end of WWII. It was soon rebuilt and restored to its original state after the war was over.
More than two million people from around the world will visit the Nuremburg market by Christmas Eve.
Speaking of music, here is an enterprising Father Christmas, St, Nikolaus or Santa playing a violin with a trumpet attached and a trumpet sound. He looks a little goofy . . . but he was quite accomplished and played some wonderful Christmas hymns. Melanie pitched in a Euro or two.

Prague - Good King Wenceslas looked out

On to Praha (Prague) in the Czech Republic. Melanie's great-grandparents, Charles Mykolashek and Marie Faltus, came from the former Czechoslovakia. Prague is home to the largest ancient castle in the world. and has been home to kings, emperors and presidents. The Czech crown jewels are housed there. Here is John at the corner of the main square for the Prague Christmas market.

Melanie standing in front of the remarkable Prague Astronomical Clock, a medieval clock that features "The Walk of the Apostles", an hourly show of figures of the Apostles and other moving sculpures, located on the Old Town City Hall, right next to the Christmas Markets. We wandered a few blocks from the main square to a huge upscale shopping area called Wenceslas Square which also had Christmas Market booths. A lovely stroll through Prague.

This gingerbread house was in the lobby of the Marriott Hotel we stayed in

Vienna - (Wien) Austria's cultural, economic and political center (and Home of Wiener Schniztle)

On to Vienna after a drive through the beautiful Czech countryside.

















Vienna, Austria's main city, is home to several colorful and fantastic Christmas markets. This one again on the main square of the city in front of City Hall, shown in the background of this photo.



This picture was taken after we left the market area in search of an ATM. We walked to a main street in downtown Vienna because someone told us we could find banks on that street. We got to the street, saw no banks but saw a couple of guys walking our direction on the sidewalk. Melanie called over to them to see if they could direct us to an ATM. As they approached, I noticed the tale-tale badge recognized around the world. Yes, it was a couple of LDS missionaries. Being missionaries, they did not know where a bank was either, but we had a nice visit. They were surprised to find someone so friendly to them. One elder was from Chicago and the other from the eastern part of Germany. They were on their way to an Institute Class at the University across the street. We also went the Christmas Market at the Schoenbrunn Palace, a remarkable palace, one of the homes of the Habsburg Dynasty, who ruled for over 600 years in Austria and surrounding countries as far away as Spain. Toward the end of the Dynasty, Maximilian, Emperor of Mexico was part of the family. Tradition says that Mozart first performed for Empress Maria Theresa and her daughter Marie Antoinette at the Palace when he was 5 years old. After his performance, he jumped onto Marie Antoinette's lap, kissed her, and said "Will you marry me !"

The spirit of Christmas was even evident in the commercial part of the city as seen on the modern high-rise building in downtown Vienna. Melanie snapped this photo from the car as we were stopped at a stop-light.



Vienna was also the home to Sigmund Freud. You know his famous saying . . .

"I almost had a psychic girlfriend but she left me before we met."

This view at Belvedere Palace is looking at the lower buildings. Housed in both the upper and lower courts of Belvedere are important art works of Austrian artists, including Gustav Klimpt, famous for his work "The Kiss", which is on display at the Belvedere along with many other works from Austrian artists. At the end of this walkway, which appears great for wheelchair access, is a staircase of about 30 steps. We made it down the stairs but had to return by leaving the palace grounds and walking around on the city sidewalks. It was all interesting. Speaking of access, at Schroenbrunn Palace, we were able to access the second and third floors via a small elevator which was actually installed the 1700's for Maria Theresa who had "bad knees". When she needed to go to those floors, a group of servants would pull on ropes attached to pulleys to raise the elevator cab. (Servants have been replaced by electric motors)

Salzburg - Mozart, Silent Night and Sound of Music

The drive from Vienna to Salzburg was fast with a changing landscape which became an Alpine wonder. So many sights, but not many pictures from Salzburg. In addition to the evening visit to the Christmas Market in the old Salzburg town square, we wandered the narrow streets and took in the beauty of this smaller city.



When one thinks of Salzburg, one thinks of music. Birthplace and home of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. He was known to be a musical geniusd, but a financial flop. We found that those who run the Mozart foundation may not be gifted musicians but are not about to fail financially. With Melanie's travel agent card and my wheelchair, we were able to get into most palaces, museums, etc either free or at substantially reduced rates. At the Mozart residence/museum they just laughed when we tried to play the discount card. The only place on the whole trip we had to pay full price. But it was interesting. Mozart's musical instruments were on display. Original art of Mozart and his family. Video displays and recordings of his life story and his music. Fascinating !



Our next musical experience was like wise inspirational. Salzburg was home to Joseph Mohr and Franz Gruber, who in 1818 wrote and performed "Stille Nacht" for the first time at St. Nikolaus church near Salzburg. The Salzburg Museum (got in free to this one) had a wonderful display which including an original manuscript of the music written in Franz Gruber's hand. "Silent Night" has been translated into over 300 languages. At the museum shop, we obtain a recording in 15 different languages and the shopkeeper through in a CD of some classical works created in Salzburg.

Last but not least on the musical scene in Salzburg is the "Sound of Music". Tour companies play this one for all it is worth. We visited the countryside but avoided the tour busses which played "The Hills are Alive" as a perk.

We thoroughly enjoyed Salzburg and its beautiful setting and rich history.

Munich - Capital of Bavaria

Munich (Munchen) meaning Monk is the center of Bavarian Germany and the third largest city in Germany. A favorite city, just north of the Alps with a rich history and friendly people. Above is photo of John ready to race around the stalls at the Munich Christmas Markets at the MarienPlatz (St Mary's Square) in old Munich. A short walk over the Izar River from the hotel, our evening visit to the Munich Christkindlemarkt was magical. This square was used as a market place in the Middle Ages. It now includes the old town hall, the new town hall, the St Mary Column, erected in 1638 and the world famous clock tower, the Glockenspeil. Marienplatz got its name in the early 1500's as a means to ask for divine intervention and protection for the town from a cholera outbreak. The Glockenspeil sculptures perform a dance three times daily to commemorate the end of the plague. It must work . . . haven't heard of any plagues in Munich since that time.

Here is Mrs. Claus in front of the Christmas tree with the Rathaus (Town Hall) in the background.

John in his wheels in front of a BMW Formula I racer at the BMW Museum in Munich. We did not visit Dachau on this trip as we had been there before and our emphasis was on Christmas Markets and BMW's. However, Dachau is a must see when in Munich. It is a town adjacent to Munich and site to the first National Socialist Workers Party concentration camp in 1933 when the NAZI's came into power that year. It is a sobering, emotional place and museum to visit. My late Uncle Scotty was at Dachau as an intelligence officer serving under Gen. George Patton the day Dauchau was liberated and witnessed survivors of the camp leaving the compound. Apparently many locals in Munich did not realize the horrors committed so near their town.

Oberammergau - Village of the Passion Play

Only 50 or 60 miles from Munich is the lovely Apline Village of Oberammergau, site of the world famous Passion Play, presented every 10 years. The play was first performed in 1634 and is the result of a vow made by the inhabitants of the village that if God spared them from the effects of the plague then sweeping the region they would perform a passion play every ten years. The play is now performed in years ending with a zero, except 1984 which was the 350th anniversary, and involves over 2000 actors, singers, instrumentalists and technicians, all residents of the village.

That plague was quite a motivator in the region !

Would love to see the play in 2010.

We found the people of Oberammergau to be warm, friendly, nice, helpful people who seemed genuinely glad to have us in their town. Besides the Passion Play, they have turned their town into a tourist resort of sorts. Beats herding goats and probably pays better. Reminds me of another saying . . . "I thought I wanted a career, turns out I just wanted paychecks." Oberammergau reminded me somewhat of Park City.

Wood carvings from Oberammergau wood carving shops are well know and prized throughout Europe. We experienced our first snowfall on this trip while in Oberammergau.

The Peak in the background of the photo has a cross at the top. The shop at the bend in the road behind Melanie is a Kathe Wohlfahrt Shop. Kathe Wohlfahrt has built her business on producing and selling traditional German Christmas items such as Kribben (Nativities), Schwibboden (Christmas scenes in wooden sculptures with candles), Ornaments, Pyramids (devices with Christmas scenes that spin when heat from candles propel blades on top of the device) , Smokers (figures that puff smoke from their pipes and mouths from incense burning) and Music Boxes. http://www.wohlfahrt.com/

Augsburg - Roman history in Bavaria

From Oberammergau we drove another 50 miles in a triangular direction to Augsburg. Augsburg was founded as a garrison of the Roman Empire in 15 AD under it namesake, Caesar Augustus (yeh, the same Caesar Augustus)

It was on the main trade route to Italy and became a prosperous commercial city. Overrun by the Huns in the 5th century and Charlamagne in the 8th century and a couple of other groups since then, it has always rebounded stronger than before. It is now the third largest city in Bavaria and a college town and commercial center. I visited a manufacturing plant years ago in Augsburg to discuss disinfecting equipment for hospital beds and equipment in Europe prior to the acquisition of hospital bed manufacturers in France and Germany. Anyways, Augsburg's Christkindlesmarkt is one of Germany's loveliest and oldest Christmas markets, held for more than 500 years in the delightful setting provided by the impressive Renaissance town hall.

As we entered old town square, we were greeted by a group, about seven, Father Christmas musicians playing Christmas music on hand cranked organ grinders. Each organ played a separate musical part that came together in a very interesting way. We got one of the lead grinders to pose with us for this picture. He seemed like he wanted to make sure Melanie was warm on this cold night. Stayed his distance from me.



The highlight of the Augsburg Christkindlemarkt is the Augsburg Angels Play when - precisely at 6:00pm - above the Augsburg Christmas Market - angels appear, playing music, and the Renaissance town hall is transformed into a giant Advent calendar. There were trumpets, harps, and flutes performing. This was our view from the wheelchair. (I don't know why Sherlock Holmes was passing through)

There is a contest among the young women of Augsburg to see who gets to be the lead Angel in this production. Sort of like becoming Queen of the Rose Parade in Pasadena.

Neuschwanstein Castle & the Village of Schwangau

What can you say about Neuschwanstein ? Built by an obsessed King Ludwig II of Bavaria who went on a building spree that bankrupted him and had the banks foreclosing on his property. (Must have taken out some sub-prime loans) He also lost his Kingdom of Bavaria and the courts ruled that he lost his mind. After becoming King at age 18, he died mysteriously at age 41 after his troubles mounted. His legacy however, includes perhaps the most famous castle in the world, plus a series of several other fabulous castles contructed during his reign. In the picture Schloss Neuschwanstein is in the background, sorry you can't see it. It is, of course, the model for the princess castle made famous by Disney. Also note our Hertz Ford Focus wagon, part of the Hertz green collection. It is a turbo diesel sipping vehicle. I was feeling so much like an environmentalist doing my part to preserve the earth's resources and reduce the carbon footprint, that I almost put on a bumper sticker that read . . . "Honk if you love peace and quiet" . . . but I didn't know how to say it in German. http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/08_37/b4099060491065.htm?chan=autos_autos+--+lifestyle+subindex+page_top+stories

The wheelchair fit perfectly in the back compartment, our suitcases in the back seat and Melanie and I in the front. About 30% of all cars in Europe are diesel and diesel is available at all fuel stations. It is priced about the same or slightly lower than regular gas. During our eleven days in three countries we figured that I drove Melanie about 900 miles in the car and that she pushed me about 90 miles on cobblestone streets at Christmas Markets. I think I got the better end of that deal.

One of those 'hold the camera at arm's length self photos at a small ski resort near Neuschwanstein. Still no castle appears in the photo, but it really is there.

While most Christkindlemarkt we went to were large displays held outside in the town squares of large cities, while looking for a restaurant near Neuschwantstein, we pulled up to a restaurant in the little Village Schwangau. We went into the building, to find that it consisted of a large meeting hall with the restaurant in the back. People from the area were entering the building, stopping at a table at the entrance into the hall and paying a couple of Euros to get into an indoor Christmas Market ! Wow, I thought, the people in this village are dang smart. We talked to the guy taking the entry fee and he was very friendly and helpful, really nice. He told us since we were dumb tourists from the US and I was in a wheelchair, we could go in free.

(Tourists yes, dumb no)

He was about my age and I asked him if he was originally from Schwangau, which he was, and I also asked him about his family and he replied . . . .

"I married Miss Right. I just didn't know her first name was Always"

When we entered the pay zone, we stumbled onto one of the nicest, most incredible Christmas Markets of the whole trip on our last day before our departure. The Schwangau market was warm, the booths were beautiful, and the people manning the booths were also the local artisans with an incredible array of handmade Christmas articles. They were so nice and patient with our inability to speak Deutch, friendly and happy to have us their sharing this special time with them. This experience topped off a wonderful trip to the Christmas Markets.